The Mani Peninsula: A Wild Greek Paradise
The Mani region, nestled in the southern Peloponnese, Greece, has an enchanting allure that has captivated travelers for generations. Patrick Leigh Fermor, a renowned travel writer, was so enamored with this place that he built a home here, splitting his time between Greece and England. In his book, "Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese," he poetically describes it as a land of ease and beauty, where the gentle west wind brings perpetual comfort.
As a traveler with young children, I can attest to the unique charm of Kardamyli, a village sheltered by the majestic Taygetus mountains. The barren mountain range, stretching over 62 miles to Cape Matapan, holds mythical significance as the home of Hades, the god of the underworld. It's a place of atmospheric intrigue.
During our mid-September visit, the weather was perfect, with warm, clear seas and pleasant evenings. We stayed at Villa Koroneiki, one of the Katergo Villas, inspired by the local tower-house style. These mini fortresses, a testament to the region's history, were once used by the Maniots to fire at each other during prolonged battles.
The villa's owner, George Tsiligoneas, a local businessman, provided an added convenience with his launderette, ensuring our clothes returned home clean. A small kitchen and limited drying space encouraged us to explore the local cuisine, and our concierge, Arvin Gautama, offered excellent dining suggestions, including his wife's homemade orange biscuits.
The location of Villa Koroneiki is ideal, situated on the coast path, offering easy access to the nearby villages of Stoupa and Agios Nikolaos. Stoupa, with its sheltered bay and waterfront attractions, is a popular walk, passing through olive groves and offering a glimpse of local life. Agios Nikolaos, on the other hand, maintains a more authentic local feel, lacking a sandy beach.
As we ventured south to Agios Nikolaos, we stopped at Gnospi, a swimming platform with deep, turquoise waters and slippery rocks, unsuitable for young children. An elderly lady lent us a noodle float, allowing us a brief dip. The area boasts a tiny chapel and showers, with people sunbathing on the rocks and breakfasting in cafés by the water.
Further south, a 30-minute walk leads to Agios Nikolaos, a village that retains its local charm. Here, we visited the historic home of Patrick and Joan Leigh Fermor, now part of the Benaki Museum. Tourists, a mix of hippies and well-dressed travelers, can explore the house, enjoying its gorgeous sea views, a large living room filled with books, and a well-stocked drinks trolley. Famous guests like Nancy Mitford, Bruce Chatwin, and John Betjeman once graced these halls.
Kardamyli, once considered inaccessible by Leigh Fermor, now attracts devotees. We met a German couple who had been visiting annually for 20 years. The village has a bouji vibe, with shops and proper ice cream, including an unusual mastic option. The taverna established by the Leigh Fermors' cook, Lela, in 1983, is still operational, now run by her grandson.
For a break from tourism, we ventured into the hills, exploring the Vyros Gorge near Kardamyli. We met only a couple of workmen, enjoying the peacefulness and autumnal beauty of the forest. We walked to the church, Moni Sotiras, alongside a dry riverbed filled with smooth boulders. The date 1807 scratched on a wall hinted at its historical significance.
Tseria, one of the highest villages in the Peloponnese, tempted us back for another visit. It's a quiet, heat-hazed village with a stunning view over Messinian Bay. We explored its tight streets, enjoyed the fig trees, and interacted with the locals, including a lady who gave my daughter a Mickey Mouse keyring.
One evening, we ventured to the village of Pigi, about a 15-minute drive into the mountains, for supper and Greek music at Stathi's Tavern. The food was excellent, especially the large tray of starter dishes. We didn't stay for the music, but the atmosphere was lively with tourists.
The mountains also offer a glimpse into the region's religious history with tiny Byzantine churches. We visited St Nicholas at Maroulaina in Kastania, a 13th-century church with unique frescoes, and St Peter's Church, where I had an unexpected encounter with a bat.
We also climbed the 18th-century Dourakis tower, imagining the pleasant shade of the large horse chestnut tree in the square. Holidays with small children don't allow for lingering, but the pool at our villa provided endless entertainment for our kids.
The Mani Peninsula is a place of wild beauty and historical significance. It offers a unique blend of natural wonders, cultural attractions, and a taste of authentic Greek life. I highly recommend a visit, and I promise you'll fall in love with its charm.
